How To Determine Your Best Eyebrow Shape
By Anne Minkler
I am so excited to talk all things eyebrows! In general, filling in and shaping your eyebrows is a fairly new makeup technique which has become increasingly popular in the past couple of years.
It was one of the last skills I learned as a makeup artist, but definitely one of the most important. One of my favorite photos to look back on is one of myself from my Senior Prom. That was the year I did everyone’s hair and makeup for every single dance. I loved doing it, and knew my Senior Prom would be the last big dance of the year. I picked out a gorgeous teal and black dress with giant strappy high heels. I felt so glamorous! I spent the longest time perfecting my dark Smokey eye and finding the perfect shade of nude lipstick to match.
“A simple thing like adding a small arch to the eyebrow, or cleaning up all the scattered hairs not directly in the shape of the eyebrow, can make a huge difference.”
I loved the this look so much and was so ready to take photos with my Prom Date and friends. It was such a wonderful night. The next day I looked through all of the pictures my mom had taken of me, and I was shocked to discover that it looked like I had no eyebrows! My dark smoky eye was completely thrown off by the light and unfilled eyebrows that seemed to disappear on camera. Oh god! There is nothing more upsetting to a 17 year old girl who thinks she did the most amazing makeup look ever, than to find out that she forgot one very important step. Oops! Luckily, I have learned from my mistakes.
Looking back on that photo now, I laugh at how young and naive I was. It’s a great feeling to be able to visually see how far I have come in my career. From 17 year old with no eyebrows, to 25 as an eyebrow specialist. I have learned how to not only shape and fill my own eyebrows, but also help show others how to do the same thing.
I specialize in eyebrow threading and waxing. I love being able to bring a person’s face to life by simply altering their eyebrows to give a more defined look. A simple thing like adding a small arch to the eyebrow, or cleaning up all the scattered hairs not directly in the shape of the
eyebrow, can make a huge difference. I highly recommend for everyone to see a professional when it comes to waxing or threading your eyebrows. It’s also very important that you know how to properly communicate the desired eyebrow shape you are wanting to your specialist.
So how do you figure out what eyebrow shape works best for you?
Well, first you want to know the natural shape of your eyebrows. There are three main shapes that eyebrows have: arched, rounded, and straight. The best way to determine which shape you have is to look directly into a mirror at your eyebrows, starting on the inner corners closest to your nose. Bathroom mirrors are usually the best because they have the best lighting!
If your eyebrows follow the shape of your eye straight out towards the side of your face and angle up to a point then drops down at a 45 degree angle, then you have more of an arched shape. This shape is popular for its more defined and clean lines.
The round shaped eyebrow is similar. It follows the shape of the eye out and tapers down the side of the face. The main difference is a rounded eyebrow does not arch out to a point, but simply continues to follow the eye shape and rounds down the side of the face.
The straight eyebrow shape starts out full close to the nose. Instead of thinning out down the side of the face, like the other two shapes, a straight eyebrow stays full and straighter across the face and then ends shorter and closer to the outer corner of the eye. This is the most natural looking shape, and a good starting point for someone who has never thread, tweeze or waxed their eyebrows.
Now that you have a general idea of the different eyebrow types, you can determine which natural shape you have. It is a good idea to match them to your face shape as well. This is the easiest way to figure out whether or not your eyebrow shape may need an update.
“…now comes the fun part. Learning how to fill in your eyebrows!”
If you have a LONGER or OVAL FACE SHAPE, then you can balance your face by having straighter fuller, eyebrows. This helps to balance out the length of your face to make it seem more even.
For someone with a more ROUNDED FACE, an arched eyebrow will help to lift the eyes and lengthen the distance from your chin to your forehead. Having a strong arch at the outer corner of your eyebrow will help to add some structure to your face and balance out the smooth facial lines.
DIAMOND AND HEART SHAPED FACES tend to already have harsh lines, with either a wider forehead or stronger jawline. The best way to balance out these more defined facial features is to have more rounded shaped eyebrows. This helps to soften the face. The more defined the jawline, the rounder and more shaped the eyebrows should be. If you have a wider forehead and more narrow chin, then opt for a more subtle rounded eyebrow.
Alright, now comes the fun part. Learning how to fill in your eyebrows! Filling in your eyebrows helps to brighten up your face and create a more defined shape. First thing I tell all my clients, especially those who have had their eyebrows shaped for the very first time: Like any new technique or skill, it takes time and practice to master.
I like to use an eyebrow pencil when filling in client’s eyebrows. There are many different products available, but I have found pencils are the most forgiving product and easily blended into the eyebrow hairs. It is also the best for reshaping or correcting your eyebrows. You want to make sure you are first using a color that matches your eyebrow hairs. For brunettes, choose a pencil that is one to two shades lighter than your hair color. Eyebrow pencils tend to be a bit cooler in color and once applied to the skin they warm up and blend in. Choosing a darker color can potentially make your eyebrows a little too dark.
In contrast, blonde haired ladies, you want to choose a color one to two shades darker. Blondes tend to have really light eyebrows, so in order for them to be seen, the pencil needs to be slightly darker. Once you have picked the right pencil, you’re ready to start filling those babies in!
“Make straight eyebrows appear fuller and longer by extending pencil line out about a quarter inch.”
1.Start with the pencil in the bottom inner corner of your eyebrow, closest to the nose.
2.Follow the bottom line of your eyebrow with your pencil in a straight line out to your arch.
3.Then go back through with a clean mascara wand and blend the line up and through your eyebrow hairs.
4.Make another line starting at the top inner corner of your eyebrow and across to your upper arch.
5.Once again, be sure to go back and blend your line through the hairs. This helps to provide definition to your eyebrow shape, while also keeping the natural look.
6.Now, starting at the top arch of your eyebrow, using your pencil, follow the line of eyebrow hairs down the side of your face and blend.
TIP: To give the appearance of fuller eyebrows, start your line from the top of the arch out a little further than your eyebrow hairs. This creates an “arch” in your eyebrows, then drop the line down the side of your face a tad higher than your eyebrow line. Then, make a line from your lower arch line out to connect the top line at a point on the side of your face.
***From here, brush and fill in any of the gaps you may see. For someone who has straight eyebrows which don’t drop down the side of the face, the easiest way to make them appear fuller, and longer is to simply extend your pencil line out about a quarter inch. Start by drawing a line at the top arch, where your brows end and extend your line down. Then, draw another line from the bottom point of your brow down to meet the other line. This should create a thin triangle-like line. Lightly fill in any gaps that may still be seen and light blend out the lines with a mascara wand to make them more natural.
“You will be pleasantly surprised by how much it can enhance your face and brighten your eyes!”
Now that you have the basics of eyebrow shaping down, your next step would be to grow and leave your eyebrows untouched for two weeks! Even if you’re a tweezer, this means no tweezing or touching up! Then you will want to schedule an appointment to get your eyebrows done. Remember, you can always let your eyebrow expert know the desired shape you are going for. It might take a few appointments to get there, but that is the beauty of filling in your eyebrows.
Start experimenting with shaping and filling in your eyebrows. You will be pleasantly surprised by how much it can enhance your face and brighten your eyes! Happy eyebrow shaping!